Manual & Fixes

At last, ways to start sandblasting on a budget that actually works well and fixes abrasive Clog Problems!

A plan to easily modify your pressure pot sandblaster and have constant abrasive flow.

-Save Time, Frustration, & Money

Pressurized Sandblaster Mods- Step by Step Instructions to fix Inconsistent Abrasive Flow and where to get a Low Cost Pressure Pot while being effective!

Have you ever bought a cheap pressure pot sandblaster or are thinking about buying one?  Well, if you have, they will save you a lot of money but they have abrasive flow problems.  This sucks, but it can actually be fixed quite easily in 30 minutes or less.

The problem with these is they don’t have too bad of quality for the price; really it isn’t that bad.  What is bad about them is the design and I show you step-by-step plans of how to easily fix this problem with a few cheap materials that you can get at the hardware store.

So before you buy equipment, you will want to read this manual of where to save money off these inexpensive pressure pot sandblasters and most importantly, how to fix their inconsistent flow problems.

The picture shows my easily modified inexpensive pressure pot that has smooth flowing abrasive, even with very fine abrasive grit.

Inconsistent flow problems are one of the most annoying things about a sandblaster that can really be easily fixed.  So if you have recently bought a pressure pot or are looking at buying one, learn how to fix the problem and save yourself a lot of frustration.

The investment in this info. will not only show you how to save the money but how to make your system as effective as possible.  So before you think about buying an expensive blaster, you will want to read this information.  I’ll show you:

  1. Multiple sources to get inexpensive pressure pots at different sizes.

  2. How to easily make them from an okay piece of equipment to a great smooth flowing sandblaster.

  3. Low cost sources for add-on appliances such as an dead man valve.

  4. Guide to other creative things you can do with your pressure pot.

  5. An attached version of the Sandblasting 101 ebook which talks about all types of sandblasters, abrasives, & how each sandblaster works

  6. NEW: More Advanced Modifications for the Pressure Pot

Advanced modifications

My manual guide is available in a PDF file.  Acrobat Reader is required to open and view the file.  If you don’t have it, you can download it free on the internet which I will show you.

There is no shipping fees and you will be directed to a website where the PDF file can be downloaded.

I will be giving this information away at $19.99 for a limited time and then will be selling it with my main course for double the price due to its effectiveness to allow people to have a good working system and save them money.

So far I have only got positive feedback from customers (on another online shopping site).  See the snapshot image I took from my profile below:

Proof from past customers for my sandblaster manual.

But there’s more.  I made some drastic changes since the time I sold it on other shopping cart stores a while back.  Now I have included:

  • Information for beginners.
  • Basic information about the different types of equipment.
  • And which type of blaster is right for your needs.
  • An Air Compressor Guide.

Next, you will be able to instantly download it by clicking the button below.

100% Risk Free Guarantee:

If this resource didn’t provide you with any helpful information and you aren’t 100% satisfied with the Ebook, then send me a quick email and I’ll happily refund you in full within 60 days. This way you have no risk in getting my ebook!

Questions About the Plans or Need Help with the Build?
Leave them below

21 responses to “Manual & Fixes”

  1. Rowland Veall

    Hi Eric. Do you have any info on diy. machinery to make your own crushed glass blast media?
    I have been doing quite a lot of net surfing & have come to the conclusion that glass seems to be
    cost effective & very productive and very cheap if i can perfect a machine.I dont see it to be a great challenge but a few pointers in the right direction would be helpfull..

  2. Eric R. W.

    @ Rowland- it sounds like an interesting idea if you have a large source of scrap glass, but I don’t really deal with making my own media.

    One thing to think about though- you should not use glass that has a lot of silica in it, which is just about most common glass found. It would emit an extremely high amount of deadly silica dust upon impact. The professional stuff that manufacturers sell is an inert glass with little to no silica in it.

  3. Keith

    I am interested in building my own Dustless wet media blaster, not the kind used with a pressure washer–the kind that uses an air compressor and mixes the abrasive and air before pushing it down the line. Do you have plans for such a blaster?


  4. Eric R. W.

    @Keith, I have been building one of these and testing it to perfection, but the project has been delayed lately. I will let everyone know once the plans are up. Thx

  5. mikey

    Iam a welder by trade and have discovered by heating painted metal you can clean paint off really easy with just a small propane torch.
    Is it possible to use heated air and hot sand to remove paint and rust?

  6. upesh kumar

    i am safety officer can u explain when sand blasting conducting time what types of hazard we face.

  7. George

    I finally got my siphon Harbor Freight (HF) blast cabinet unit put together, complete with some mods [lights, additional "breather" tube next to siphon tube, foot control (locked ON for now since i am using the HF trigger gun), platform with casters, HF air separator with regulator and gauge, Ridgid 6 gal vac with added drywall bag for dust collection].

    But I am having severe inconsistent flow problems. When I pull the trigger, the siphon hose fills up in a couple of seconds, the gun plugs up, and media flow stops. Sometimes if I pulse the trigger it will continue to sputter out a bit. I can block the nozzle and pulse to backblow the siphon hose and start again, only to have a couple of seconds of media blow. I have worked a couple of hours on my first part, cleaning up a floorboard for my tractor, but still only have it about half done. I have been experimenting with different nozzle tips, removing/putting back the added breather tube, moving the added breather tube outlet in relation to the end of the pickup tube, modifying the added breather tube to a narrow slot exit, adding more media, increasing pressure, and of course fixing blown off HF hoses and other maladies that occur while i learn.

    I am using the included Harbor Freight gun, nozzles, and siphon tube. I am using some (garnet i think) abrasive I had lying around from an old tumbler project (AmberBlast, which seems to be no longer available). My compressor is a Sears oilless 6HP/33 gal rated at 11.5 SCFM@ 90 PSI. I have a 3/4″ copper overhead air piping system necking down to a short 3/8 drop with a quick disconnect near the blast cabinet. I have noticed no moisture in the air or media. There is a (about) a 1/2″ 30ft flex hose with quick disconnects between the drop and the blast cabinet. I have tried pressure settings (set at the cabinet regulator) from 80 to 110 PSI or so, and at least two sizes of the nozzles (i cant tell if there are three sizes or two as one nozzle seems to have a slightly oval hole).

    I am going to try some other possible free “fixes” including going to lower pressure (i read one post online that garnet works better at about 60 PSI and should run as low as 40). I will try removing the extra breather tube as well with lower pressure settings, and check that my stock HF tube has some airflow for breathing (it looks like the two tubes are a tight fit).

    I will upgrade the gun, change media, add a mixing valve, or other mods if i can somehow figure out these are legitimate fixes for my problem. But i don’t want to spend much on “plug and try” fixes that might not be effective. When i know i can get it going, i will invest in some silicon carbide media as most of my work will be rust and paint removal from steel.

    I have researched around and found mention of U shaped pickup tubes with side holes, and both home-made and commercial media mixing valves with air/media mix adjustment. There are too many variables and i don’t have infinite time and $ to try them all. And it is frustrating that some people report the stock HF components work adequately, which makes me think i dont need any more upgrades, just tweaking the right variables.

    I could not tell if, or which, of your online ebooks might reveal the solution(s) i need. I am willing to invest if you are confident one of them will do the trick for me, or if you could give me some diagnosis steps, I would be willing to try them.

  8. mike yeager

    Got your ebook and it has solved a few of my problems ,however you say you have now added a list of vibraters and where they can be purchased . Do I have to buy a new book or can I just purchase the up dates? You have been a light at the end of the tunnel on so much. Keep it coming! Thank you , Michael

  9. Eric R. W.

    @Mike, thank you for your purchase! You do not have to purchase it again. I will send you an email shortly with the download. Thanks!

  10. Tim Jones

    Can you tell what kind of 1/4in tubing I should use

  11. ATMann

    I want to know if l can connect the pressure pot to the compressure machine for inflating car tyres

  12. Eric R. W.

    @Tim Jones, in the ebook, I included a direct link to where to get this inexpensively, but I can’t remember it off the top of my head. I tested many types and this stuff rocks for its ability to resist abrasives!

    @ATMann, I guess you are thinking of those portable air tanks. Yes, you can definitly make one of those, but I wouldn’t suggest you use it for blasting and blowing up tires. Even after you remove a lot of the abrasive out and pull air from the top of the tank, you still might get abrasive coming up. Best to have two different tanks.

  13. iik Mubarak

    hi Eric..!

    I confused when I will to buy the silica sand for sandblasting
    because I don’t know to choose it .( I’m Newbie)

    Please let me know.
    how do I choose the silica sand with measuring unit in mesh
    I will to do removing paint include thick body filler of my old car (VW Kombi)

    thank you so much

  14. harry

    I have read somewhere here tonite about you having an adjustable nozzle, ok you got my interest…where and how, also I will purchase the above guide tomorrow.
    My BIGGEST problem with my pot was (after long and laborious hours) MOISTURE…made all the adjustments, drained the pot TREE times…..but I did not actually clean out the pot !!!!, Took all apart back flushed…thought that was good…………NOPE Apart again, used a long stick with a rag attached to the end and cleaned out the complete inside, again back flushed…. WOW, just dump and fill really did nothing. After cleaning out the above way….I bet you I had probably 5++ lbs on the tarp of semi damp..really hard to tell, sand, left apart a couple of days to dry out.. Now I use an electric heating pad wrapped around most of pot, and add less sand in pot, adding when needed. I reside in Canada…very hi moisture content, even with a dehumidifier in the shop WHAT A LEARNING EXPERIENCE….

  15. Erik Zurbruegg

    Looking where I can take sandblasting classes in upstate NY? I live just outside the Syracuse Area.

  16. Rex Linder

    Thank you for the offer, but thing are just too tight at the moment. Here a photo of my first go in thirty years.Did this yesterday.

    Attachments area
    Preview attachment Glass.jpg

  17. Michael Wheatley

    Thank you for the manual on fixing the problems with pressure pots. I found it clear and very useful. I have a couple of questions:

    1. Why do you leave the top end of the stand pipe open? If it extends beyond the level of the media in the pot, would not all the compressed air in the tank rush through it and into the hose without carrying any abrasive?

    2. I need to switch media types in my HF pressure pot every so often. What is the best way to flush out any remaining media in the pot (before making your stand pipe modification) and what is the best way if I go ahead with the stand pipe modification. I suspect your are going to say, “take the connectors off the bottom of the tank and let it drain out” — if so can you recommend any sort of quick release for these connectors.


  18. robinson sichumba

    heyy i need a help in sand blasting pot has a problem of abrasive flows,i don’t know how do it,please can you help me or shows me.

    thank you

  19. France

    Does your ebook on sandblasting tips, modifications and info go into detail on the specifics of where and what to buy for the needed sandblasting components (I.e.pressure pot, compressor, nozzles,etc.?).

    I have a cabinet but am really lost about selecting my other components since there is so little information out there for putting a complete system together.

  20. Col

    We have an Eastwood Econoline Model RA-36-0031 that is not blowing the blasting material in to the cabinet, although the air is reaching the Abrasive Control Valve. We are completely new to this, so I apologize if my wording off.

    Can you help with ths?

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